pica in cats

Pica in cats: The two most obvious reasons a cat may no longer want its food, is firstly has the food gone bad. Sometimes cat food can become tainted in its packaging, check to see if the can has any dents in it or if there is damage to the packaging in any way. Smell the food your self and see if there are any unusual odours or any mould on the food. Secondly, is the cat ill in any way? Sometimes bad teeth can cause problems or they have a stomach bug. A vet should check out any suspicions of illness immediately.

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Pica And Other Cat Eating Problems

Most cat owners will notice from time to time that their cat decides for no apparent reason that they just don't like their cat food any more and won't eat it. This often completely puzzles a cat owner, as usually their cat just can't get enough of their so-called favourite food.

Everything a cat does, even if it is the strangest behaviour you've ever seen is always caused by something. It is never because they are being awkward or naughty and the secret to finding out why they no longer like their food is to look at it through the eyes of the cat. This way the cause is often much clearer.

The two most obvious reasons a cat may no longer want its food, is firstly has the food gone bad. Sometimes cat food can become tainted in its packaging, check to see if the can has any dents in it or if there is damage to the packaging in any way. Smell the food your self and see if there are any unusual odours or any mould on the food. Secondly, is the cat ill in any way? Sometimes bad teeth can cause problems or they have a stomach bug. A vet should check out any suspicions of illness immediately.

Other reasons why your cat won't eat its food are:

Getting food elsewhere - your cat may be catching its own meals if you live in an area where rodents are prolific. Or a neighbour could be feeding them. Cats have fairly small stomachs and need time between meals to digest their food. So a non-hungry cat may just be full. Mating season - female cats when in season will go off their food naturally. So if you have a queen who stops eating but starts to display normal mating behaviour this is probably the cause.

Changes in situation - cats are renowned for being very fussy about change and they generally like their world to remain consistent. So even something as small as changing their feeding bowl or area can cause them to feel insecure about eating. Look around for little changes that may be causing your cat some concern.

Over feeding - In the wild cats choose to hunt and eat small rodents and birds. When you consider how much of a small meal this is, you may begin to realise that by providing your cat with a large bowl of food, you are providing too large a meal all at once. So when you see your cat eat a little then walk a way it's not that they are "off their food", it's because they want time to digest what they have just eaten. Unfortunately if the rest of the food is left to sit in the bowl all day it is likely become less appealing and the cat will not eat it. Most cats will self regulate their food intake like this but in some cases you will get a greedy cat who will stuff themselves with a large bowl of food leading to an overweight kitty. As a rule it's best to feed your cat small portions of food throughout the day to avoid overeating and wastage.

A less unknown fact about a cats appetite and feeding habits is that they have an inbred instinct to change their diet from time to time. This is a survival mechanism to prevent starvation in the wild if a particular food source disappears. This instinct is still present even in our domestic cats that have no worries of this. So from time to time a cat that normally loves to eat, say fish may suddenly only want chicken. From an owners point of view this is not only inconvenient but may also cause concern if their cat just won't eat it normal food. A solution is to always have some other flavour of food in stock for these occasions so that worries of ill health can be eliminated from the owner's minds.

A more serious eating problem known as Pica that some cats suffer from is a rather unusual condition where a cat will choose to eat non-food items. The most common substances are rubber, electric cables, fabric and wool. The cause of this unusual eating behaviour is unknown, although it is thought that it may be caused by under stimulation, in other words boredom. This is because most cases are reported amongst indoor cats, who do not have the normal cat stimulus of hunting, exploring and climbing etc.

At present there is no cure for Pica but as it is quite dangerous for cats to eat these substances, the main treatment is to make the substances they crave either inaccessible or taste very unpleasant. Whilst at the same time making their environment more stimulating and interesting, with toys, climbing frames and games. One such game is to hide small treats inside tubes or boxes, so that the cat has to seek them out and has to put some effort into retrieving them.

More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com, a feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.



About The Author

Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site www.our-happy-cat.com, a feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.




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A very important aspect of new kitten care is keeping your kitten safe from danger. There are a lot of potential hazards round the home for little kittens. This article lists the most common ones and suggests ways you can minimize risks to your kitten and keep her safe.

Washing machine and tumble dryer:
If you leave the door open and there are clothes inside, there's a good chance your kitten will climb in and go to sleep. Always check your kitten isn't inside these before you use them.

Fridge and freezer:
As soon as you've used these, shut the door.

Hob and oven:
Shut the oven door as soon as you've finished with it. Cover hot hob plates.

Raw meat:
Keep it out of reach - it can give your kitten food poisoning.

Garbage:
Put all garbage in a sealed bin that your kitten can't access.

Plants:
Many plants are poisonous to cats. If you're not sure whether a certain plant is safe for your kitten if she eats it, put it out of her reach.

Pot pourri:
The oils used to scent this can be poisonous.

Open fires and candles:
Use a guard on the fire. Never leave a kitten in a room alone with lit candles.

Electrical wires:
If your kitten is a wire chewer, you'll need to put wires out of her reach or buy plastic covers for them.

Curtain tie-backs and cords on window blinds:
Kittens can get caught in these. Either remove them completely or tie them up out of reach.

Filled bathtubs and sinks:
Make sure your kitten doesn't have access to the room when the tub or sink is full.

Open toilet:
Try to get into the habit of keeping the lid down when the toilet's not in use.

Medications:
Keep them in a cupboard that your kitten can't get into.

Small objects:
Kittens can swallow small things like paper clips, rubber bands, staples and needles.

String, wool, fishing line and thread:
Kittens can swallow large quantities of these. For this reason, balls of wool or string and pom-poms aren't good toys for cats.

Household chemicals:
Most cleaners etc. are highly poisonous to cats and need to be kept somewhere your kitten can't access.

Tobacco:
Tobacco, nicotine patches and nicotine gum are all poisonous to cats.

Reclining chairs, futons, folding beds, drawers:
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Safety is a major factor for new kitten care. It's fairly easy to keep your kitten safe as long as you anticipate potential dangers and take the necessary steps to prevent them. Putting brightly colored post it notes up around your home is a good way to do this. Stick the notes on or near potential dangers - for example the fridge, washing machine, oven, toilet and futon - and anywhere else that could be a hazard.

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Getting Ready for the Newborn Kittens

Caring for your cat during pregnancy may require a lot of time and effort in your part but it is a very wonderful and rewarding experience. But after the kittens are already born, you will need to do a different task and that is to take care of the newborn kittens. These kittens will need special kind of attention and care and you must make sure that you could provide it to them.

One good way to start is to prepare your home for the arrival of the newborn kittens. Kittens tend to play with, chew, or nibble anything that attracts their interest like plants, cords, and other materials. You should remove the things that could be harmful to the newborn kittens like anything that could poison them or hurt them. Electrical cords must be kept out of reach. Look for anything sharp and pointed and remove them from the area immediately. Deal with anything that could strangle your kitten like ropes, ribbons, and cords to provide a safer place for your kittens.

You might also want to save your curtains and drapes from kitten scratches so it would be advisable to tie them up so your kittens will not be able to reach them. Make sure that the cabinet for your cleaning liquids are out of your kittens’ reach. Most of these cleaning liquids are poisonous and you wouldn't want your kitty to play with them to prevent any kind of accident.

Another good preparation that you should not forget is to shop for things that your kitten will need. You will have to shop for foods that are suitable for newborn kittens. You should opt for foods that could give your kittens the kind of nutrition they need for growth. The food should also be easily digestible by kittens to prevent any troubles with their tummy.

You should also get them the things they need like their own bowls, kitty basket or bed, blanket, litter box, and toys. This is to ensure that your kittens will be comfortable and that they will have a good playing time. You should provide them with warm and comfortable place or area to sleep in. When choosing toys for your little kittens, make sure that they are safe and will not put the safety of your kittens at risk.

Lastly, you must make sure that your kittens are healthy. After birth, you could have a vet take a look at them to check them up for any illness and to give them vaccines that they need. If your vet saw some signs and symptoms that suggest illness, your kitten might be subjected to some tests and examinations. This is to ensure that they will grow healthy and will reduce the risk of getting sick. These things will help prepare you and your home for the arrival of your cat’s newborn kittens. You will not have to get worried about their safety inside your home and you can be sure that you will able to provide them with anything they need for them to grow happy and healthy.

About the Author
Shaun Bradley
My name is Shaun Bradley and I am an avid Cat Lover/Owner. I have had cats ever since I can remember. Now I have just two cats named Sylvia and Goldie. They are great pets and fairly simple to take care of as long as you know some easy cat training tips. Visit my website for more information http://www.trainingyourcats.com

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I Think My Cat is In Heat, What Do I Do?

Cat's Heat Cycle
If you ahve an un-spayed cat, whether because you haven't gotten around to having her spayed or because you don't believe it spaying female animals or whatever the reason, you should be prepared for the cat to go into heat.

Usually a cat will come into her first season between 4 and 10 months old. That is a pretty lengthy time span, which is why if you don't want to deal with the cat going into heat, you should consider spaying the cat as soon as your vet recommends.

A cat's normal heat cycle lasts between 7 to 10 days, and occurs every 2 to 3 weeks.

If you do not spay your cat and you do not breed her, there is a high risk that the female cat will develop cancer in her reproductive organs or she can develop pyometra, which is a fatal infection in the uterus. So, needless to say if you do not want to breed your cat, then it's highly suggested that you spay the cat by at least 6 months old.

Signs of a Cat in Heat
Any or all of the below signs may indicate that your cat is in heat.
* More affectionate.
* Rolls around on the floor more than usual.
* Carries tail to one side.
* Very vocal, meowing a lot, with a more piercing tone.
* Points bum in the air with head and front half of the body on the ground.
* Licking vulva area.
* Rubs face against you or furniture more than usual.
* If an inside cat, she may try desperately to escape and run outside.
Precautions to Consider When Your Cat is In Heat
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QUICK CAT FACTS

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ARE GINGER CATS ALWAYS MALE?
No. This is a common misconception. Ginger cats can be either male or female although ginger females are less common.

The genetics of ginger is explained in more detail in Tortoiseshell and Tri-Colour Cats (ginger is caused by the same gene as tortoiseshell), but this is a short version for those wanting a quick answer.

The ginger gene changes black pigment into a reddish pigment. The ginger gene is carried on the X chromosome. A normal male cat has XY genetic makeup so he only needs to inherit one ginger gene for him to be a ginger cat. A normal female is XX genetic makeup so she must inherit two ginger genes to be a ginger cat. If she inherits only one ginger gene, she will be tortoiseshell with some ginger areas and some black/brown areas.

The ginger gene is called a sex-linked gene because it is carried on a sex chromosome.

Also, if you look closely, ginger cats have tabby markings though these may be faint or only visible on the face, tail and lower legs. They are also visible in the ginger areas of tortie cats. This is because the gene that turns off tabby to give solid colour cats does not work on the ginger colour.

ARE GINGER FEMALES RARE?
No. They are less common than ginger males, but they are not rare. It is possible to selectively breed ginger female cats by mating ginger males and ginger females together. They will have ginger offspring.

ARE GINGER FEMALES STERILE?
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Focus On Cat Health

Cat Health

As Old as He Feels – Caring for Your Elderly Cat

They say old age creeps up on a person like a thief in the night. This is especially true of your cat. Cats seemingly race through adolescence and adulthood, and suddenly at around 8 years of age, they are entering their golden years. As our cats age, they may have specific needs or problems that must be addressed. The aging process brings about a gradual decline in a cat's physical and sometimes mental abilities. Becoming aware of these issues allows you to provide the best possible care.

Not all cats age at the same rate. A cat's biological age depends upon genetic background, the quality of his diet, his general state of health, and the quality of his living conditions. Research estimates that old age for cats begins somewhere between the 8th and 9th birthday. This is the equivalent of about 55 human years.

Ideally, caring for the geriatric cat should focus on preventive measures.

Whenever possible, it is better to prevent a problem from occurring, rather than to wait for a problem to develop. Detecting diseases in the early stages greatly improves the outcome. Different cats have specific risk factors that influence the diagnostic approach to geriatric medicine. Characteristics of the breed, genetics, environment, and lifestyle of your cat may put him or her at greater risk of developing a particular disease or other age-related changes.
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TOXOPLASMOSIS

Toxoplasmosis (commonly called toxo) is a disease caused by a microscopic protozoan called Toxoplasma gondii. You may have heard about this infection because of the danger to newborn children if a woman becomes infected while pregnant. Another reason cat owners should be aware of toxo is that the cat is considered the "definitive host" of the toxoplasma organism, meaning it is the only animal that sheds infectious toxo in its feces.

All mammals can become infected with toxo. Infection can occur in two ways. One is by ingesting toxo that has been shed in the feces of a cat. This can occur through contact with soil where cats have defecated or through direct contact with a cat or its fecal matter. This is a very uncommon occurrence. The much more common method of acquiring toxo is by eating meat or prey which contains toxo in the form of a tissue cyst. In cats and other predatory animals this occurs commonly when they eat uncooked prey. In people it occurs most commonly through eating raw or undercooked meat since beef, pork and lamb can all contain toxo.

When any animal, including people and cats, become infected with toxoplasma it usually is an inapparent infection with no illness. This is because the body's immune system puts up a defense that stops the spread of the toxo and walls off the organism into a tiny tissue cyst which remains dormant for years. These are the same tissue cysts which if eaten can cause infection.

In people the situation is different if the person who becomes infected has a compromised immune system, such as a person with AIDS or a person on immune-suppressing drugs. In these cases, the spread of toxo may not be held in check and it can develop into an overwhelming and sometimes fatal infection which may affect many organs including the lungs, liver, eyes and brain. The situation is also different if the person who becomes infected is a pregnant woman.

The woman will generally have no apparent illness, but the toxo organism can pass to the fetus and result in damage to the eyes or brain causing congenital disease.

When mammals other than people become infected a similar thing happens. The vast majority never have illness but may carry tissues cysts of toxo for life. Only a few whose immune system fails to stop the toxo will become ill. This holds true for cats as well. A high percentage of cats have toxo cysts but are not ill, but we only occasionally diagnose toxoplasmosis in cats where it causes disease of the eye, lung, brain or other organs.
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PICA In Cats: EATING THE INEDIBLE

Pica means eating non-food items. The behaviour ranges from sucking, chewing and biting through to swallowing bites of items. Pica (from the Latin for "magpie"). It should not be confused with the suckling/nursing behaviour that some cats retain into adulthood. Commonly consumed target items include wool, string, elastic bands, electrical cords, tissues, tinsel and houseplants. Other objects have included cassette tape and the rubber "teat" section of a child's dummy (pacifier). Eating a little grass or herbs is normal cat behaviour; indoor cats may eat houseplants if there is no grass accessible.

Like many obsessive or abnormal behaviours, the cat persists in doing it because the it is comforting or rewarding. The reward might be a nice taste, a full stomach or simply getting attention from the owner. The challenge is to make the behaviour unrewarding and redirect the behaviour into something rewarding for the cat and acceptable to the owner. Sometimes it is a displacement activity where an abnormal activity is substituted for normal behaviour because the cat can't express the more normal behaviour i.e. the normal behaviour is being thwarted.

PICA, WOOL-SUCKING OR PREY-PLUCKING?
Wool-sucking (or fabric-sucking) is a misdirected form of nursing. It's similar to a child's thumb-sucking in providing comfort.. Though sometimes mistaken for wool-eating, the item (sweater, blanket etc) is only sucked, not chewed, bitten or swallowed. Other commonly suckled objects include the cat's own tail, other cats or pet dogs. Behavioural treatment may be needed to build up the cat's confidence so it no longer resorts to "comfort nursing".

In general, the younger a kitten is when it is weaned, the stronger the urge to nurse and the more persistent the comfort-nursing. Usually it decreases naturally as the kitten grows up, but it may persist or resurface in early-weaned or hand-reared cats, particularly at times of stress. More rarely it becomes a compulsive behaviour or progresses to pica.

Some owners provide an old sweater for the cat to suckle on while protecting other garments by storing them away from the cat or dabbing hot chilli sauce onto them.

Plucking the target resembles pica but is a misdirected prey-related activity. The cat holds down the (often woollen) blanket or garment with its paws and uses its teeth to pluck or tear at it. This is the same behaviour found when a cat plucks or tears fur, feather or flesh from larger prey items (e.g. pigeons). The clothing/blanket isn't swallowed anything the cats tears off is discarded. One of my cats, Sappho, exhibited this behaviour towards crochet blankets.

In the case of one Siamese cat, it took a sock to its eating area and plucked at it periodically during the meal (canned food). The owner attributed this to "teeth cleaning" but it was probably misdirected prey-plucking/tearing behaviour as it only occurred at mealtimes.

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History, Temperament of the Maine Coon.

History of the Maine Coon Cat
Maine Coons have been on this earth for many centuries, they were well documented at being in large numbers at American Cat Shows in the mid 1800’s alongside the other popular breed at the time the Persian cat.

There are several theories as to the origin of Maine Coons, the Darwin Theory of an animal’s origin being disregarded and obscured, from being an outcross between a Bobcat/Wildcat and a domestic, coming across as ship cats from Scandinavian countries as Forest type cats and mating with the domestic cats, to Marie Antoinette sending her royal cats on a ship to the safety of Maine, prior to her beheading. Nobody really knows and the cat’s aren’t saying.

Maine Coons are a natural breed of cat or at least the original ones were, and anyone who has ever met one and to everyone who has ever lived with one, the Maine Coon is a very special breed of cat. [1]

Appearance of The Maine Coon Cat
Maine Coons are the largest breed of domestic cat and have a rugged, working cat appearance. They have a lovely semi-longhaired coat of varying lengths and were well built to survive in the harsh North American winters. This coat is very water repellent, but quite soft to the touch. An amazing plumed tail of large proportions finishes off this wonderful coat. They come in a large variety of colours and in several tabby patterns as well as solid and particolours. Brown tabby is the original colouring of a Maine Coon but the rainbow of colours range through blues, reds and creams, silvers tortoiseshell and solid blacks through to solid white.
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