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<H1>Leashing a Cat </H1>

Shadow had been the cat in our house for over seven years
when we moved from the country into town. His usual lifestyle
including roaming our five acres whenever he wished. Moving to
town required him to be a "house" cat, and he managed for two
months. Then one Friday morning as I left for work, he streaked
out the door. I called him, but he was gone.

Oh, well, I thought, he'll be back, probably waiting
for me when I get home.

When I arrived home, I asked my husband if he had seen Shadow,
and he hadn't. I wasn't really worried, though, until Saturday
came but Shadow didn't. By Monday, I began to worried in
earnest. I couldn't call the animal control office until they
opened at nine, and my planning period began at 8:55. Needless
to say I was calling when the clock showed nine o'clock.

"Hello, have you found a large black cat with yellow eyes?" I
asked.

"Ma'am, we have four black cats. Can you give any distinguishing
marks?"

"He's a male, weighs nearly twenty pounds, but he isn't fat at
all. His undercoat is a dark brown, but he looks solid black."

"I think we may have him. Come by, pay the fine, get his shots,
and he's yours." The man sounded disgusted. "All he does is sit
in the corner of his cage and glare. He was one of the cats
brought in that had been trapped by one of the landlords in that
neighborhood. Doesn't like cats."

On the way home, I stopped by the animal shelter. Shadow still
hunkered in a corner of the cage, glaring. When I called his
name, he stood and sauntered to the front of the enclosure,
tilted his head and squinted his eyes. He allowed me to pick him
up, oomph, heavy cat. When we got into the car, he sat in the
passenger seat ignoring me until we were nearly to the house.
Then with one bound, he pressed up against the side of my leg,
his head on my arm. I held him the rest of the way home, driving
with one hand.

I knew we had to find a way that the cat could go outside but
wouldn't leave the yard. Shadow was smart, almost human, but he
didn't get the concept of staying in the yard. The job became
leashing a cat. A collar wouldn't work because if he climbed and
became caught, he could strangle. I bought the largest cat
harness the store had and two long leashes that could be hooked
together. Bringing them home, I put the harness on the cat.
Let's revise that last statement; I tried to put the harness on
the cat. It was too small. I kept the leashes and returned the
harness.

The next day, I gathered Shadow in my arms, and we drove to a
local pet store. I carried him into the shop, where we looked at
harnesses in the dog department. I took the cat and one harness
over to a counter. I sat Shadow on the top while I readied the
harness.

"You're just going to leave the cat there without any
restraint?" one of the clerks asked.

"Sure. He won't move until I tell him he can," I answered as I
slipped the harness on the calm, miniature panther. The cat sniffed the harness before yowling softly. He then lay
down to clean his paws as I paid for the harness, one for a
medium sized dog.

I gave Shadow a few days to become used to his harness before
attaching the leash, first just one as I held the other end. He
didn't like coming to the end of the leash confused him at
first, but after a few "lessons," he learned that the leash
limited his activity space. We would have a time on the leash
three times a day for thirty minutes.

After a week of times on the one leash in the house, I snapped
both leashes together and one end on Shadow's harness. We went
to the front yard for fifteen minutes to start the next step in
preparing the cat for "leash life." Each day we lengthened the
time outside until we stayed for an hour. The next day, I
connected one end of the connected leashes to a post and left
Shadow by himself. He did well for the two hours I left him on
his own. The next outing was in the back yard. On a Saturday
morning, when I could be home, I placed him on the leash in the
backyard, and I left him while I did housework. I checked him
periodically through the window, but everything appeared fine.
Then one time I looked out and couldn't see Shadow. I hurried to
the back yard to find him hanging from the top of the fence. He
never tried to go over a fence while hooked to the leash again.
I was glad I hadn't tried a collar around his neck.

Leashing a cat is possible, rewarding, and successful for both
cat and owner if certain steps are taken:

1. Use a harness that fits the cat snugly but not too tightly.
2. Allow the cat to become familiar and comfortable wearing the
harness. 3. Start lessons with a single leash hooked to the
harness and the other end in your hand while you and the cat are
in the house. Begin with fifteen minutes and lengthen time up to
thirty minutes. 4. When the cat appears comfortable with the
leash being used in the house, add the other leash to the end of
the first and move outside. Stay with the cat each trip to the
yard until he is comfortable. 5. Once the cat is left outside
alone on the leash, check periodically to be sure he hasn't
gotten into trouble. 6. Never leave a cat on a leash outside if
no one will be home to check on him.

After Shadow was leash-broken, we could take him anywhere with
us, including trips, and not worry about him. Travel became much
easier for him and us.

Shadow also never spent any more time in a cage.

About the author: 
Vivian Gilbert Zabel taught composition for twenty-five years.
Her portfolo is <a href="http://www.Writing.Com/authors/vzabel">http://www.Writing.Com/authors/vzabel</a>. Her
books, Hidden Lies and Other Stories and Walking the
Earth, can be found through Barnes and Noble or Amazon.com.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with
<a href="http://www.PetLovers.Com/">http://www.PetLovers.Com/</a> which is a site for <a
href="http://www.PetLovers.Com/">Pet Forums</a>.

This Article was provided by CatNews.org 
<a href="http://www.catnews.org">Give your cat and kittens a longer and healthier 
life. Visit CatNews.org </a><a>an easy to navigate feline resource site filled 
with informative articles about cat and kitten health and care. New pet articles are 
added daily. Enter your cats picture in the Mac Daddy Cat Challenge.</a>

Leashing a Cat

Shadow had been the cat in our house for over seven years when we moved from the country into town. His usual lifestyle including roaming our five acres whenever he wished. Moving to town required him to be a "house" cat, and he managed for two months. Then one Friday morning as I left for work, he streaked out the door. I called him, but he was gone.

Oh, well, I thought, he'll be back, probably waiting for me when I get home.

When I arrived home, I asked my husband if he had seen Shadow, and he hadn't. I wasn't really worried, though, until Saturday came but Shadow didn't. By Monday, I began to worried in earnest. I couldn't call the animal control office until they opened at nine, and my planning period began at 8:55. Needless to say I was calling when the clock showed nine o'clock.

"Hello, have you found a large black cat with yellow eyes?" I asked.

"Ma'am, we have four black cats. Can you give any distinguishing marks?"

"He's a male, weighs nearly twenty pounds, but he isn't fat at all. His undercoat is a dark brown, but he looks solid black."

"I think we may have him. Come by, pay the fine, get his shots, and he's yours." The man sounded disgusted. "All he does is sit in the corner of his cage and glare. He was one of the cats brought in that had been trapped by one of the landlords in that neighborhood. Doesn't like cats."

On the way home, I stopped by the animal shelter. Shadow still hunkered in a corner of the cage, glaring. When I called his name, he stood and sauntered to the front of the enclosure, tilted his head and squinted his eyes. He allowed me to pick him up, oomph, heavy cat. When we got into the car, he sat in the passenger seat ignoring me until we were nearly to the house. Then with one bound, he pressed up against the side of my leg, his head on my arm. I held him the rest of the way home, driving with one hand.

I knew we had to find a way that the cat could go outside but wouldn't leave the yard. Shadow was smart, almost human, but he didn't get the concept of staying in the yard. The job became leashing a cat. A collar wouldn't work because if he climbed and became caught, he could strangle. I bought the largest cat harness the store had and two long leashes that could be hooked together. Bringing them home, I put the harness on the cat. Let's revise that last statement; I tried to put the harness on the cat. It was too small. I kept the leashes and returned the harness.

The next day, I gathered Shadow in my arms, and we drove to a local pet store. I carried him into the shop, where we looked at harnesses in the dog department. I took the cat and one harness over to a counter. I sat Shadow on the top while I readied the harness.

"You're just going to leave the cat there without any restraint?" one of the clerks asked.

"Sure. He won't move until I tell him he can," I answered as I slipped the harness on the calm, miniature panther.

The cat sniffed the harness before yowling softly. He then lay down to clean his paws as I paid for the harness, one for a medium sized dog.

I gave Shadow a few days to become used to his harness before attaching the leash, first just one as I held the other end. He didn't like coming to the end of the leash confused him at first, but after a few "lessons," he learned that the leash limited his activity space. We would have a time on the leash three times a day for thirty minutes.

After a week of times on the one leash in the house, I snapped both leashes together and one end on Shadow's harness. We went to the front yard for fifteen minutes to start the next step in preparing the cat for "leash life." Each day we lengthened the time outside until we stayed for an hour. The next day, I connected one end of the connected leashes to a post and left Shadow by himself. He did well for the two hours I left him on his own. The next outing was in the back yard. On a Saturday morning, when I could be home, I placed him on the leash in the backyard, and I left him while I did housework. I checked him periodically through the window, but everything appeared fine. Then one time I looked out and couldn't see Shadow. I hurried to the back yard to find him hanging from the top of the fence. He never tried to go over a fence while hooked to the leash again. I was glad I hadn't tried a collar around his neck.

Leashing a cat is possible, rewarding, and successful for both cat and owner if certain steps are taken:

1. Use a harness that fits the cat snugly but not too tightly. 2. Allow the cat to become familiar and comfortable wearing the harness. 3. Start lessons with a single leash hooked to the harness and the other end in your hand while you and the cat are in the house. Begin with fifteen minutes and lengthen time up to thirty minutes. 4. When the cat appears comfortable with the leash being used in the house, add the other leash to the end of the first and move outside. Stay with the cat each trip to the yard until he is comfortable. 5. Once the cat is left outside alone on the leash, check periodically to be sure he hasn't gotten into trouble. 6. Never leave a cat on a leash outside if no one will be home to check on him.

After Shadow was leash-broken, we could take him anywhere with us, including trips, and not worry about him. Travel became much easier for him and us.

Shadow also never spent any more time in a cage.

About the author:

Vivian Gilbert Zabel taught composition for twenty-five years. Her portfolo is http://www.Writing.Com/authors/vzabel. Her books, Hidden Lies and Other Stories and Walking the Earth, can be found through Barnes and Noble or Amazon.com. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

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* the near-instantaneous upchuck of kibble just eaten (this will be designated a "kibble ball")
* the ever-disgusting, viscous mixture of partially digested food and digestive juices that comes up several hours after a hearty meal.

Each of these spew-types represents a different level of challenge in the attempt to destroy all evidence of the incident. We shall start with the easiest, the common hairball.

A hairball can be easily distinguished from other forms of spew. It is a compact, moist but not sloppy, torpedo-shaped object that closely mirrors the color of your cat's fur. Due to their benign composition, hairballs can be dealt with immediately (preferable) or at a later date (non-optimum) with little risk of damage to the defiled object (which for this article we will assume is your carpet).

Hairballs can be dealt with using a simple two-step process:

1. Remove the hairball gently from the scene of the accident.cat vomit Hairballs can be plucked, scooped or even rolled effectively from the rug using a variety of techniques and then disposed of. I prefer plastic spoons and knives that I get from fast food restaurants gratis. It is best to plan ahead and acquire these in anticipation of the need. The utensils can then be disposed of or recycled, in line with one's environmental beliefs. Stiff paper (higher quality junk mail) or cardboard (cereal box tops) are perfectly good alternatives. The primary goal in hairball removal is to not exert any downward force on the hairball, thereby driving any moist content further into the rug. Never attempt to run your vacuum over a hairball for this reason

2. Perform a simple dabbing-type cleanup of the area with a clean damp cloth or sponge. Using only water is the best approach. Avoid foot traffic until dry. Hairballs generally leave little trace on your rug once removed. A simple water clean up with a damp rag or sponge should suffice. Soap and water or a commercial rug cleaner can be used if necessary but these tend to attract dirt later on. Try to get away with just water if you can. I have used Resolve and Folex with good results when a stronger cleaner was needed. Read and follow the instructions on the bottles as these may lead to worse staining than the original cat spew.

Kibbleballs are somewhat more troublesome to deal with. The kibbleball results when a cat meal is injested and then, in short order, "degested" into a pile on the floor. Depending upon your cat's peculiarities, there may well be multiple (though rarely more than three) piles to contend with.

Many of the removal techniques that work on a hairball work just as well on a kibble ball as the true kibble ball is only slightly moist and has good shape retention characteristics.
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'cat

Multi-Vitamin for Cats

Many pet owners wish to provide their animals with the best health possible by giving them a multi-vitamin for cats. Cats require a certain careful balance of vitamins and minerals as well as other nutrients in order to function at their best. By ingesting the proper combination of these vitamins, your cat will remain healthy and strong and is more likely to enjoy a long, happy, and illness free life.

The exact vitamins which your cat will need are slightly different from the vitamins which you may see in a human multi-vitamin supplement, however, so it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the basics of feline nutrition before you purchase anything.

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Ideally, a good cat food will provide your pet with all of the different vitamins and nutrients that he needs. However, there are a number of reasons why he may still require a vitamin supplement as well. First, many cat foods do not provide the highest quality nutrients as a result of lower quality ingredients in the food. Second, sitting on the shelf for weeks or even longer can mean that the vitamins and nutrients which are naturally in cat food are reduced in quantity, thereby not giving your cat the nutrition he requires. For this reason, multi-vitamins are a good supplement to help your cat overall.

Components of a Cat Good Multi-Vitamin Cats require certain enzymes and amino acids that can only be found in meat sources. For this reason, cats that do not eat meat will not be healthy and, ultimately, will not survive. Thus, many of the multi-vitamin supplements that are available for cats focus on some of these types of nutrients which are usually found in meat sources. These include:
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Here is your chance to put a rotating picture gallery of the cats of CatNews.org on your blog or website.

Drop this code into your page and the gallery will function just like the pictures you see on my site, changing each time your visitor refreshes the page. I am always adding pictures to these galleries. They already has quite a few in them.

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Cat Blood Types

Cats have A, B and AB (rare) blood types. Most cats in the United States have type A blood - something like 99% of domestic shorthair cats have Type A blood. This ratio varies from country to country. Other cat breeds have a much higher incidence of Type B blood. As the popularity of purebred cats increases it is likely that the ratio of cats with Type B blood will also increase.

There is no "universal donor" blood type in cats - a very small amount of the wrong blood type can kill a cat if is is sensitized to the blood. This can be an issue in some cat breeds. In particular, British Shorthair, Cornish Rex and Devon Rex cats, where the percentage of Type B cats is much higher, perhaps as high as 50%. Other breeds with significant percentages of Type B blood include the Abyssinian, Himalayan, Japanese Bobtail, Persian, Somali and Sphinx breeds. (preceding information from Urs Giger, University of Pennsylvania, Kirk's XI).

If a Type B queen (mother cat) gives birth to Type A kittens, severe reactions can occur in the kittens
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Lab Blood Work Tests for Cats

Cats require blood work tests when they need to diagnosed for different diseases. Blood tests are widely used in veterinary medicine. The results are measured against normal values, which are typically present in healthy pets; these values differ across species. The lab test results may be influenced by certain drugs, so always inform your vet about the medication of your pet prior to blood tests. Prior to certain blood tests, your cat should fast.

Complete Blood Count
The complete blood count is a blood test that is very frequently employed to inform the vet about the amount of different types of cells in the blood flow of the cat.

The red blood cell count as well as the white blood cell count and the hemoglobin are important values to determine the condition of the cat. Red blood cells transport the oxygen to the vital organs, while white cells help fighting infections.

A low red blood cell count can indicate anemia, while a high amount of white blood cells can indicate an infection or a viral disease.

Platelets help the blood to clot. If the platelet count is low the cat may have a destroyed bone marrow or an autoimmune disease.

Hematocrit or packed cell volume (PCV) may also measure the red blood cell count.

Commonly Performed Blood Tests There are numerous tests that can be performed on a cat to determine his health condition. Some tests will show how a particular organ functions, while other tests will give a general overview.

The following tests are most commonly performed in felines:
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Focus On Cat Breeds

Tonkinese Cat and Kitten Information

The Tonkinese is a beautiful cat with a medium build, short hair coat and brilliant eyes. Their coat is soft and comes in a wide variety of colors, all of which are recognized for show purposes. Colors can be solid and pointed. Given the striking resemblance, pointed Tonkinese are often mistaken for Siamese cats. The nickname Tonk is used quite often.

These are energetic cats and will seek out ways to amuse itself, sometimes to the point of being mischievous. Tonks enjoy the company of favored humans and their warm affectionate nature makes them great companion cats. Intelligent and playful, the Tonk displays a fun loving curiosity, with individual personality.

History
The Tonkinese are said to be a cross between the Burmese and Siamese. Some say that they were first established in Canada, others say that they have been around for hundreds of years and still more say that they came to England in the 1800s as the Chocolate Siamese. The Tonkinese received championship recognition in 1984.

The ancestor of all domestic cats is the African Wildcat, the genus Felis Lybica. This genus is comprised of smaller cats. Cats are thought to have been domesticated with the advent of farming and the storage of grain. The grain attracted rats and other vermin which naturally attracted wild cats. As time evolved, certain of these cats were domesticated for the mutual benefit of both cat and man. The African Wildcat has certain features which is obvious in the housecat of today.

Health
Cats who reside in the house should generally visit the veterinarian yearly, unless health problems are evident. Cats who enjoy the outdoors may need to see the vet as many as four times a year. When you take your cat to the vet, be sure to bring along a fresh stool sample so the vet can do a fecal exam to check for internal parasites such as tapeworm, round worm, whip worms and hook worms. The vet will also check for external parasites such as fleas, ticks and ear mites.

Any vet check should include a dental examination and a cleaning if necessary. Cats who are eight years of age or older are considered geriatric and additional blood and urine tests may be necessary to screen for any health problems. At about six months of age, the kitten should also be examined for sexual maturity and decisions about birth control should be made.

Behavioral Traits
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Grooming Tips for Preventing Matted Cat Hair

Matted cat hair is entangled hair that ends up in tight knots. Long haired breeds are more susceptible to the condition than other pets. Cat hair is divided into three categories as each type of hair performs a certain role. The types of cat hair include awn hair, down hair and guard hair. The various function of cat hair involves protection from environmental contaminants, heat and cold. The uppermost layer of cat hair also determines the color of individual pets.

Cat Hair Conditions
Cats shed their fur during specific periods. However, fur loss that's caused due to skin conditions such as alopecia, dermatitis or skin allergy needs medical treatment. Although cats routinely groom themselves to maintain their fur coats, pets also develop conditions such as cat hairball due to the ingestion of hair during routine grooming. Pet owners should thus groom the cat with a brush to avoid excessive self-grooming and cat hairballs. Cats that appear sick or lethargic may avoid their routine grooming which in turn leads to matted hair. Thick knots are difficult to detangle with a comb and may cause the pet pain, if the mats are located towards sensitive areas of the body.

Tips to Separate Matted Cat Hair
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The kidneys of a cat can become diseased in a number of different ways. Cats can be born with congenital kidney disorders or the kidneys can become damaged due to injuries, infections, kidney stones, tumors and toxins (such as antifreeze). While all of these conditions are life threatening they are, luckily, all fairly uncommon. The kidney condition of cats which is very common is a progressive deterioration of the kidneys with no apparent underlying cause that progresses with age. We refer to this as Chronic Renal Failure (CRF). This condition is the most common cause of death in aged cats. When deterioration of the kidneys occurs, they are not able to function normally. The kidneys have several important functions. They help clear toxic waste products from the body, keep several blood chemicals at normal levels, and control fluid balance to maintain normal hydration. They also produce a hormone necessary for the production of red blood cells and are involved in the regulation of calcium and vitamin D

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